Hints & Tips

SVH Hints and Tricks.

The following are supplied with the caveat “If you don’t understand – please contact the named member, not me” 😊 I captured the basics but may very well have missed an important ‘bit’.

 

Steve:  how to tie a reef or square knot (left over right and under, right over left and under, pull each side evenly to tighten).  Will hold two yarns of the same sized under tension.  To release hold the two yarns on one side of the knot and pull sharply – the knot will click.  You can then slide the other yarn off the end.

 

Phyllis:  in addition try joining by tying a slip knot on one yarn, put the end through it and pull tight.  Ends can be trimmed back.

 

Jane: when using mixed yarns a way of testing shrinkage.  Take a length of all the various yarns to be used, tie them together at one end.  Trim the other ends to an equal length.  Then wash hot and cold changes, rub, wad, rinse – any harsh treatment.  Let dry and see which yarns have shrunk/changed/misbehaved – and proceed with weaving forewarned with that information.

 

Jane:  If using a paper/card gauge to measure picks at the edge.  Inevitably you will drop the card.  If you fix a magnet (ex shower curtain for instance) to the card you can use and extending rod with magnet to pick it up off the floor without having to get down on hands and knees.

 

Jane:  yarn info cards can be prepared and attached by a loop of the yarn on a cone.

 

Nancy:  A long handled clamp in every room to pick things up without having to bend down.

 

Nancy:  From Hobby Lobby a packet of metal hair clips (the ones that are curved and ‘pop’ open/closed).  Ideal for clipping bunches of yarns as you dress the loom instead of using knots.  Also for hems.

 

Tawanda: Meet and separate technique in tapestry.  See diagram at end of list.  To avoid lumps and bumps and slits.

 

Carla:  Warp helper/weaving cross holder available from Etsy (with video).  Mounts on loom and avoids having to hold the cross when dressing the loom.  Works best on non-‘sticky’ yarns.  See: https://streamable.com/iuqqic and https://streamable.com/upskui for short videos.

 

Marie:  String heddle maker for fixing heddle threading mistakes found after finishing.  Marked on a board from original heddles,  tied around nails and with safety pin ends .

 

Marie:  Color wheel from Handwoven – for making color combo choices.

Paula:  when weaving complex patterns (overshot for instance)  a string that has the whole treadling sequence represented by numbered (corresponding to treadle) beads.  As each is treadled it can be slid over to the ‘done’ side.  Found on FB weaving hacks.

 

Carrie: Using temples to help minimize draw-in and avoid undue wear and tear on outer warp yarns.  Temples can block some of the ‘pattern’.  Alternative is to use hooks or clips on the outside edge of the woven portion, with cords/string out and over either an existing side brace on the loom if it has it, or a clamped-on alternative if not.  Weights at the end of the cord pull ‘out’ on the weaving keeping the cloth from drawing in as much.

 

Steve:  a further refinement is to have a small hook on the hooks/clamps and fit a chain from one side to the other – prevents the ‘temple’ from pulling outwards more than needed.

 

Sue:  Angel wings clamp or attach to the castle of a loom and allow for the positioning of dowel cross holders/lease sticks while dressing the loom.  Available from Etsy.

 

Nancy:  long pipe cleaners can be attached at back/top of castle and hang there when not in use.  When needed to hold cross holders/lease sticks they are hooked around them.

 

Sue:  Used a mirror at the side of the loom to look through the shed to see all is clear.

 

Carrie:  From a video from Janet Dalton – when weaving overshot keep the order over, over then under, under to keep direction same for each pair.

 

Phyllis:  When cutting off a portion of the warp after sampling (or other reasons) and to minimize waste (and the needs to tie on).  After weaving the sample skip some warp then weave a few picks (will depend on the yarn type but needs to be enough so it won’t ‘slip’) then insert a rod and weave some more.  You can then cut off the sample, and just lash the rod to the apron beam – adjust tension and back to weaving.

 

Phyllis:  How to make a butterfly of yarn for floating selvedge yarn etc.

 Tawanda’s diagram